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- Growth of surface wind-waves in water of finite depth. A theoretical approach doi link

Auteur(s): Montalvo P., Dorignac J., Manna M., Kharif Christian, Branger Hubert

(Article) Publié: Coastal Engineering, vol. 77 p.49-56 (2013)
Texte intégral en Openaccess : arxiv


Ref HAL: hal-00749901_v1
Ref Arxiv: 1206.1491
DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2013.02.008
WoS: WOS:000318325400005
Ref. & Cit.: NASA ADS
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Résumé:

In order to study the growth of wind waves in finite depth we extend Miles' theory to the finite depth domain. A depth-dependent wave growth rate is derived from the dispersion relation of the wind/water interface. A suitable dimensionless finite depth wave age parameter allows us to plot a family of wave growth curves, each family member characterized by the water depth. Two major results are that for small wave age, the wave growth rates are comparable to those of deep water and for large wave age, a finite-depth wave-age-limited growth is reached, with wave growth rates going to zero. The corresponding limiting wave length and limiting phase speed are explicitely calculated in the shallow and in the deep water cases. A qualitative agreement with well-known empirical results is established and shows the robust consistency of the linear theoretical approach.